All roofing contractors base their price on sqare footage, roof pitch, access to the roof, type of shingles, installation of vent-a-ridge and/or ice and water shield and whether your roof has flashing/chimney/skylights/valleys.
Roofers refer to how many square the roof is. A sqare is a 10 ft x 10 ft area which equals 100 sqare feet. 3 bundles of shingles will cover 100 sqare feet. A 7/12 roof pitch can be walked without roof jacks. Any roof pitch above that would need to have roof jacks & planks installed in order for the roofers to work. A rancher is generally around a 5/12 pitch. A Cape cod is generally a 10/12 pitch.
When your old roof is removed, the debris should be thrown directly into a dump truck/trailer without having to throw the debris onto your yard or flowerbeds. When your new shingles are delivered, the shingle delivery truck comes with a boom to lift them directly onto the roof so that the installers don’t have to carry them up the ladder. If your roof does not have this access, it will add to the cost of the job.
There are basically two types of shingles. The first is the standard 25-YEAR three-tab fiberglass shingle. The other is the 30-YEAR architectural or dimensional shingle, these shingles are also available in a 50-YR shingle, but for a much higher cost. There are other varieties of shingles, which are considered to be specialized shingles. These include the type which have the appearance of slate. There are also wood cedar shingles and slate shingles. * However, our company does not install these types of shingles. From an installation standpoint, the dimensional/architectural are much easier to install and we highly recommend installing this type. If you live in a high wind area, the 50 yr shingle (which is heavier) would be recommended. The 25yr shingle is only about $10/sq less expensive than the 30-yr shingles. Therefore, we believe the 30 yr shingles are much more cost effective, but ultimately the choice is yours.
Vent-A-Ridge or ridge vent has replaced the old roof fans by simply cutting a small hole along the ridge of the roof, then installing the vent-a-ridge which allows the hot air in your attic to escape your home from. There are two basic types of Vent-a-ridge. The first being an aluminum vent which comes in 10 ft sections which is simply installed over the hole in the ridge of the roof. They come in a variety of colors to match the color of your shingles.
The other type is referred to as a “shingle over” ridge vent. This is a fiberglass mesh or a rigid “plastic” vent, which is covered with shingles. We recommend the aluminum Vent-A-Ridge because it vents more air. However, it may not be as aesthetically pleasing as the “shingle over” type. Either of these products work most efficiently if your eaves/soffetts are vented because the eaves are the intake of fresh air and the vent-a-ridge is the exhaust of the hot air.
Ice & water shield is a relatively new product to this area. The only way to describe what it is, is to say that it is a “rubberized” felt paper. It comes in 3 ft wide peel & stick rolls and is installed along the gutter area and in any valleys. Many municipalities now require this as part of any roof installation. It is designed to prevent water penetration while heavy snow or ice melts. If your eaves are wide, this may not be applicable for you because it is designed to keep water out of any finished interior space.
As a general rule of thumb, flashing at walls is not replaced because any good roofer should be able to remove the old roof without damaging that flashing. Often times, chimney flashing does not need to be replaced for the same reason. However, we prefer to install ice & water shield under the flashing around the chimney. If you have a quality skylight with a solid wood frame and metal flashing, it can usually be used over again. However, what we refer to as plastic “bubble” skylights must be replaced because they are installed with tar & caulk instead of flashing.
There are basically two types of applications for flat roofs. One is asphalt, the other is rubber. We don’t recommend asphalt roll roofing because it will generally only last 7-12 yrs and requires periodic maintenance. The cost savings between that type and a rubber roof is minimal.
Rubber roofs come in 2 thicknesses. .045, which should last 20 yrs. And .060, which should last 30 years. Most rubber roof applications can be installed over an existing roof, whereas the asphalt application should have the old roof removed. The reason rubber can be installed overtop, is because a ½” x 4’ x 8’ fiberboard is installed over the existing roof and the rubber is adhered to it. Fiberboard is harder than cardboard but softer than plywood and is installed using screws with 3” plates. Most rubber applications are “fully adhered” in which the entire rubber roof is glued to the fiberboard. But in cold weather applications where the glue will not dry, steel bars are screwed down over the rubber and are covered with 6” wide peel & stick rubber which is also an acceptable form of application. Rubber roofs are highly recommended because there is no periodic maintenance required.